N1DL Karl

South America Trip

3/15/04 Getting ready to leave today. All equipment tested, packed and ready to go.
Licenses/Permits secured for all countries, except Ecuador (still in the works).

Calls "Country Prefix/N1DL" except for Falkland (most probably VP8CDL). Maritime mobile occasionally V31EK/mm.
Will generally favor lowest band open (e.g. 10, 12, 15) and modes CW, PSK, RTTY and SSB and in that order.
Will try to check into Spiderweb Net 14347 KHz in the morning and monitor freq on the full hour.
Looking forward to contacting you from PY1, VP8, LU, CE8, CE7, CE2, CE1, OA5, OA4, HC2, HC4 and TI8.
QSLs to home call: N1DL
Band CW PSK31 RTTY SSB
---- -------- -------- ------- --------
40 7003 7035/7080 7085 7050/7080
30 10102 10142 10140 --
20 14003 14070 14080 14195/14260/14347
17 18077 18100 18160 18145
15 21003 21070 21085 21260
12 24897 24920 24925 24959
10 28003 28120 28085 28495
6 50100 50110

all freqs + or - QRM , split announced, will be in CE8 during WPX contest.

3/17/04 Hi everyone de PY1/N1DL

We had a great flight to Rio but arrived in rain and fog. However next day was great weather and it stayed that way - blue sky and sunshine.
Visited all the good sites and had a ball. Folks are real friendly here and food is great. Could not hear the net on 14347 but
DX condition aren't that good. Made many contacts in \psk and \cw including Europe - few USA. The mountain right behind me may be the reason.
Leaving today for Argentina.
73 de Karl PY1\N1DL

3/19/04 Hello everyone de PY1/ N1DL,

Still no sound of Spiderweb members on the bands. Conditions in Rio where tough with the mountain right behind me. On the picture of Copacabana beach you can see this clearly. However got some CW and PSK contacts in the log. This is a great city and beautiful suroundings. The people appear happy, friendly and content. Both Gitta and I enjoyed our time in PY1. Did not make any personal ham contact - just not enough time - but mailed mucho QSL cards for past contacts locally. That ought to raise some interest with the hams when they get them stamped in RIO.

Attached are some pictures from our Rio de Janeiro stop.

73 es DX
Karl PY1/N1DL

3/19/04 Hola Spiderwebnet de LU1/ N1DL!

Made it to Buenos Aires - well it means "Good Air" - but its not. Lots of traffic, never seen so many buses in my life. Exhaust smoke and gases everywhere. Not as bad as in Bangkok but close. The city reflects the spendor of times past but the 'deferred maintenance policy' shows up everywhere. We found all locals friendly and helpful - many speak Italian surprisingly and we had no problem getting around and being understood. Mike KM4MI's spanish training course came in handy a few times. Thanks Mike!

I had an opportunity to visit the W1AW of Argentina - LU4AA in Buenos Aires. Made a few pictures for you all of the club station and even a 60 year old Collins AM transmitter that was used for bulletins in the late 30s and 40s. Also shown is the LU QSL bureau. The antenna is impressive and they have lots of rigs but the building is in tough shape and needs a major refurb inside and outside. I operated in LU (Buenos Aires) a little but with visiting some relatives there wasn't as much time as I anticipated to have. Could not hear the net on 14347. The noise carpet in the city was enormous.

Steve K4MIF may be interested to know that almost every building has a huge tower smack in the middle of the city. Some look as if they could not withstand more than 20 miles wind.

Thats it for today - off to VP 8 land
CUL sn de LU/N1DL Karl

3/21/04 Howdy folks,

This is an experience of a life time - having fun and trying hard not letting it show! Today spent about 5 hours as V31EK/mm on 10, 15 and 20
meters - mostly PSK and CW. The highlight of the day was to talk to the South Pole Station KC4AAC - (almost local from here - at least it was a
strong signal.) location about 500 miles south east of Montevideo/Uruguay smooth seas - air temperature 65 F (about 17 C) and sea temp about 75 F (22
C) lots of birds around although we are far away from land.

Conditions were fine to Europe - worked many stations there - but few US stations heard. Best band was 15 meters. No Asia heard but worked 6W in
Africa.

Heard but could not work a number of 4 land stations in USA. Also worked LU8XW the Ushuaia Radio Club on 20 m - they are waiting for me
they say!

Gitta is relaxing and happy that I use headphones and not "talk" too much -
so much for digital modes hi!

73 esw DX de V31EK/mm Karl (AKA N1DL)

3/22/04 Greetings from the South Atlantic 5:00AM today.

As we are approaching the Falkland Islands early this morning 0620 and entering British Territorial Waters I am closing down V31EK/mm and getting ready for the immigration officers to clear me for landfall.

Yesterday brought some nice QSOs with EU, SA and NA but no W's - the band sure sounds different here in this Hemisphere. Reminds me a lot of my operation in Lord Howe Island. You sometimes think there is something wrong with the coax or antenna - thats how quiet it is. Its obvious that there are much less hams active in the southern half of the globe.

The highlight of the day was a QSO with Spiderweb member John HK3AK who cam in 57 to 59+ in the evening at 0000 Zulu on 20 meters in SSB. It was good to hear his melodious voice and booming signal. He had no competition, at least not at my end - no one else around in the phone portion of 20.

The most efficient mode during this trip is without any doubt PSK31. It gets thru the worst conditions and even if you can't hear the signal in the headphone it still prints on the screen. RTTY needs much more field strength and is more error prone.

Enclosed is a picture of my screwdriver antenna clamped to the balcony. I swing her in and out as needed and it is easy to change bands and/or remove the antenna with the additional quick disconnect. The thin (RG174?) coax was also a good idea (thanks Steve) as it fits thru the door seal and doesn't get damaged by the tight fitting door.

Have worked another station in Ushuaia last night and provided the weather holds up we should have
a good time with the radio club members there. As it is getting light land is appearing and Stanley shows some lights.

Now I get the sat phone out go on deck and send this email.

73 de Karl N1DL
(3 miles from VP8)

3/22/04 Howdy folks from the bottom of the world!

Arrived this morning in Port Stanley - it was a dreary morning - low clouds and drizzle. Gitta and I were the first ones of the vessel and took a very shaky tender to Stanley the capital of the Falkland Islands. Stanley is built from the sea up on a hill side and quite picturesque with its colorful roofs and houses.

VP8 land has only 2500 inhabitants and two thirds live in Stanley the only town in the Falklands. The others live in farms on the various islands called "Camps". These camps have only Gensets and no other services. Outside Stanley with the exception of the road to the new airfield built after the 1982 war with Argentina there are no roads. So everyone drives Land Rovers. Can't go off track because of the mine fields that still exist from the war.

First things first - So Gitta and I walk to the licensing office (also the Post Office of Stanley) - but about 1/2 mile into the trip it starts raining like there is no tomorrow. Gitta rescued herself into a store while I persisted to walk the remaining 3/4 of a mile arriving totally drenched. My application was in a folder but the clerk told me that neither of my requested calls could be granted and I was going to get the next sequential call sign "VP8DHP". No ifs, buts and whens - so I took it, said thanks and asked for VP8LP's address and instructions to "row" there in the rain. As I was drenched already it didn't matter much.

As I get out of the office a friendly man approaches me and says he knows where Bob VP8LP works (Cable and Wireless) just out of town and he will give me a ride. However when I get there with my QSL's for him - he was not in. So I leave them on his desk. One of his coworkers took pitty of me - water running down everywhere and wet pants sticking to my legs - and offers me a ride back to the store where Gitta was already waiting fearing some whales finally got me.

By that time the XYL had it, 49 F and rain - so she takes shelter and goes"independent". I call up Bobs various phone numbers he had emailed me and catch him on one. "Don't move Karl - I get you in a few minutes". Sure enough 4 minutes later (Stanley isn't very large!) he drives up and brings me to his QTH on one of the upper roads overlooking Stanley. There he introduces me to his XYL who had just returned from the hospital in the UK having a broken arm nailed and offers me to operate his station. Yaesu FT-100 with a longwire and remote tuner.
While he had to get back to work I start a pile up and work for several hours about 2 stations a minute, mostly EU's but also Africa, South America and a few Yanks.

Then it was Spiderweb time and I check 14347 and hear K5LYN clearly - I tried in vain to break in - but you folks are too quick on the PTT. I heard Lynn talk to Harry and Howard but heard no one else other than a whisper.

After crying my heart out - not being able to reach you folks I continue the pile up on 15m.

In the afternoon the rain stopped and the sun came out and things looked up. But you guys know the priorities just as I do - so the sun could not disturb a good pile-up and so it was.

Thats it for now - if the sat phone still works I get this out - gotta recharge the batteries of everything tonite.

Photos are self explanatory. The "monument" in front of the church are Whale bones.

Tonite they forcast bad weather - a #7 storm - so we shall see how things are holding up.

73 es DX

Karl VP8DHP (aka N1DL)
Stanley, Falkland Islands, South Atlantic Ocean

03/22/04 Good morning,

Well what can I say - this place as isolated as it is from the world (the nearest country Argentina has no transportation to and from the Falklands), the people are amongst the friendliest I have encountered in my many travels around the world. Everyone says hello - there is always time for a little chat - and all the islanders are Jacks of all trades. They have to be. So skills are pooled and everyone helps everyone else. Bob VP8LP is a 3rd generation Falklander - interesting stories and quite a different perspective. There is absolutely no crime on the island. Oh I forgot Mrs. Smith still owes a library book to bring back.

Had another QSO with John HK3AK at 0000 GMT on 20 meters. He is booming in here when there is no other signal heard. I think the world forgot about this area and all beams are turned in other directions. How else could you explain this quiet band. Bob says thats the way it is - ain't it great?

40 meter was open around 0830 to 0950 zulu to Asia and South Korea came in S9. But again no US or VE. Some VKs also showed up a little later.

We will be off to the southern most city on earth "Ushuaia" today and plan to arrive Wednesday.

I have finally reached a balance and a little over half the QSOs made are now SSB. But that may change again.

Attached is an updated map reflecting the VP call change.

Greetings from the South Atlantic

Karl VP8DHP

03/23/04 Position: 56 034.84 South 067 18.17 West or 1/4 mile from Cape Horn

Just arrived at Cape Horn in uncharacteristically good weather and only 4 to 7 ft seas. The Cape is Chilenean Territory and hosts a Metereological Station. On the pictures 4 + 3 you can see it in bright red. Picture #1 shows you the landing site for the station and the stairs that lead up the hill to a small red hut. On picture #2 is a visiting sail boat and if you look sharply above it on the plateau you see white fence posts these are to mark a mine field. #6 shows you Cape Horn from the South exactly on the line where the Atlantic meets the Pacific. Finally #5 shows the Monument to perished sailors and in its center opening represents an Albatros - the bird dead sailors turn in to.

Now on the radio side - very little other than a great contact with EM1HO the Vernatsky Antarctic base on Graham land. Paul just arrived and is part of the winter crew and will stay until Nov.

The bands are almost dead. Heard a 9A from Croatia in the morning on 20m but could not get him. No W's heard all day -- this is an isolated place for sure.

We are now going East again and will enter Argentine territorial waters and the Beagle channel in about 4 hours.

Hope you enjoy the pics and reports - greetings

Karl CE8/N1DL/mobile

Trip report#9?

03/24/04 So much to see - and so little time!

Greetings from "the end of the world - Ushuaia the southern most town on earth" Having rounded Cape Horn yesterday we entered the Beagle Channel and picked up a pilot in Port Williams on the Chile side of the Channel who guided us during the night to Ushuaia, Argentina. They call pilots "Nativos" here - very fitting. Everyone tells us how lucky we are with the weather. Instead of low clouds and fog we had another blue sky day - (you know the saying: "..when angels travel ...")

Ushuaia is another interesting port city and well protected but nevertheless exposed to constant cold winds. Although it is Argentinian in order to get there you've got to go thru Chile or take a boat or plane. Its the take-off point of many Antarctic expeditions and there were several explorer ships in port. Until 20 years or so ago it only had a population of a few thousand people vs. todays 40,000. This is not a place for sunbathing in case that wasn't obvious to you. Fishing, rock climbing, hiking, horseback riding, hunting for beached whales and yes in summer scuba diving are some of the spirited activities available to locals.

We only had half a day here so it was a great rush to see as much as we could in this time. I have again attached a few photos to give you a sense and show you the very well equipped Radio Club Station LU8XG. They have 3 towers and can operate several stations at once. Located only 1/4 mile from the airport they've got their own club house with kitchen. In fact on one of the photos where you see almost in the middle a big brown building, the low green spot almost in front on the left is the club house. Its only a few meters from there to the waters edge - this gives them a great ground. (sounds familiar to Marco hams!)

There was no shopping to speak of - Ushuaia is a free port - but due to the high transportation expenses - even cheap gets expensive.

It is hard to describe the natural beauty of the surrounding area. The clean air makes the colors vivid and mountain tops and glaciers look crisp and near.

Could not hear John HK3AK last night but will try again tonight on 20m at 0000 GMT. As I will now again be in Chilenean territory in 10 more miles my call sign will change to CE8/N1DL/mobile. Next stop Punta Arenas but first a trip down the Magellan Strait along the glaciers of Tierra del Fuego.

Greetings

Karl and Gitta
LU/N1DL

03/25/04 BRRHHH - its cold!

Having left Ushuaia we proceeded along the Darwin Strait for about 300 miles in basically westerly direction with the exception of a dog leg out to the Pacific and back into another strait leading to Punta Arenas. The wind was so bad that the ship could not enter the harbor and go alongside the pier. On the way the scenery was breathtaking - especially the glaciers that reach all the way to the see. In one of the pictures look at the coloring of the water where the glacier sediment shows up as a clear dividing line in the water - all created by microscopically shaven off stone thru the force of the glacier.

It got really cold and although Gitta and I braved the temps and took a tender in rough seas to Punta Arenas our stay was of short duration:
one) because even with 3 and 4 layers of clothing we were freezing
two) the President of Chile was arriving (no not to greet us particularily)
three) the harbor folks and longshoremen were getting ready for a demonstration
four) I could not raise a soul on VHF or HF

So I spent the time working some more DX from Africa, Europe, and Asia.

Conditions are good today and I even spoke to Bob VP8LP on 15 meters again.

The next few days will be on sea winding ourselves from the tip of Chile to Puerto Chacabucco and then Puerto Montt.

Greetings from you ice bear

Karl CE8/N1DL
Punta Arenas, Chile

03/26/4 Eventually the weather catches up ...

We left freezing Punta Arenas, Chile last night and proceeded in relative calm thru the Strait of Magellan south west to reach the Pacific Ocean. Then after midnight all hell broke loose when we were in the open sea. Over 40 knot winds and 16 foot waves. Even now at 8 a.m. local time its still rough. Look at the pictures of the weather monitor. The band (20m) was open until about 0030 zulu but I could not hear John HK3AK although some W's came thru. There are a lot of Asian Russian stations active long path around 14135 to 14150. Worked Africa, EU, SA again but it was no easy picking. Surprisingly little PSK and RTTY. Its also abvious that many stations in the northern hemisphere do not turn their beams to SA. I guess there isn't that much activity from here. Once they do its no problem to work them.

The 21150 beacons came thru in the p.m. from KH6WP, JA2IGY, RR9O,YV5B, W6WX, 5Z4B. Interesting propagation but few hams heard.

I removed the antenna when it got so windy that I feared it would rip off the mount. 40 miles wind plus 20 knots ship speed gives about 60 miles and thats too much for the little screwdriver antenna. I should have brought fishing line to guy it. Well - next time !?

Sofar the only thing I would do different as far as the station is concerned - bring a second miniature coax feed line. I am praying every day that it holds up another day - and sofar it does.

In a few hours we should again enter Chile territorial waters and at least for a while take an inside passage to Puerto Chacabuco where we will arrive Sunday a.m. So for now its your South America travel companion Karl saying 73 es DX de V31EK/mm region 2

PS will listen again tonite 0000 zulu in SSB on 14347 - turn your beams south folks! call will be CE8/N1DL/mobile again while inside and V31EK/mm outside.

Karl N1DL

03/27/04 Wind, Waves, Fog .... but having fun !

Good morning everyone. We are still in CE8 land. Having rough seas outside in the Pacific and low clouds and fog inside the Fjords of Southern Chile.
The glaciers are spectacular - but the WX could cooperate a little more.

Have attached one picture of a glacier in the Amalia strait about 340 miles north of Punta Arenas. Ice is floating along the strait.
Not a place for sunbathing - Temp 42 to 49 F only (7 - 9 C approx).

Working lots of EU's especially eastern and southern Europe, Japan, and Asian Russion stations. PSK and SSB - not much CW activity.

Have attached a picture of my antenna mount for the screwdriver antenna on the verandah. No ground needed.

73 es DX
Karl CE8/N1DL

03/28/04 My nightmare came true ....

Yes folks - it happened: My coax feedline has a problem. Last evening while working as CE8/N1DL in the Worked all Prefix contest I decided to change bands from 15 meters to 20 meters. I got my feet entangled in the miniature coax and pulled the cable out of the BNC connector. Well - my own fault. But that was it for the rest of the contest. Won't be able to buy a soldering iron or a new cable until I get to Puerto Montt or even Valparaiso.

This brought more time for watching the scenery and get ready for Puerto Chacabuco where we arrived early this morning. In case you don't have a recent Atlas you probably won't find it. Its a new Port built 9 km down river from Puerto Aysen (sometimes spelled Aisen) when the latter after a series of earthquakes and a tsunami totally silted up in a matter of days. You can still see boats there, now on land, that will never make it to the ocean again. While Puerto Aysen has a town with it (18.000 inhabitants), Puerto Chacabuco is a harbor where the town has yet to arrive.
By the way Aysen is not a word with spanish origin. I was adapted from the early europeans calling this valley Ice End - as it is the end of the ice glacier area of Southern Chile.

Main income of the locals is from fishing, fish farming (salmon), wood harvesting and since 4 years from tourism. This is when the first road to this region was built, although the distance via surface is long and the route goes thru Argentina to get to other parts of Chile. I was told its a 40 hour drive to Santiago. There is a spectacular water fall named Virgin but my little digital camera had problems getting everything on the picture.

I will try to make a temporary fix to get back on the air again - its now CE7/N1DL/mobile - but the answer is a plug or new cable.

Worked a fair number of US stations during the contest but also worked JA, EU's, ZS and of course mucho South Americans. Amazing what this little screwdriver antenna can do.

Although the temperatures have climbed a little since frigid Punta Arenas (its 53 F as I write this at 2 p.m.) we still have low clouds and the mountain tops are mostly hidden. We are 45 Degrees 28 Minutes South - it should get warmer now every day as we trek north along the Pacific coast.

I am sure in a few days, with the coax fixed and closer to Central and North America I should hear you all on the net.

Greetings from Chiles beautiful but isolated Fjord region ...

Karl CE7/N1DL temporarily QRT

P.S. Steve where are you when I need you?

03/29/04 Back in business ....

When I last reported from Chacabuco I had damaged the miniature coax being clumsy and ripping it out of the BNC plug. Well I made a temporary repair with some aluminium foil and managed to get a few QSO's done in CE7 land.

This morning when we arrived in Puerto Montt I tried to find someone on the ship who could tell me what soldering iron is in Spanish. You won't believe what names the Philipine/Indonesian crew offered. My trusted dictionary also drew blanks. Anyway we settled on "Soldar Fuego" but that created only stares on land and no one understood what I wanted. Bye the way Coax cable, feedline etc brings the same result.

Puerto Montt is the regions capital and largest city. To get here we passed numerous Fjords and islands - great scenery. Located 700 miles south of Santiago Puerto Montt is also the terminus of the railway and the continental portion of the Pan American Highway that stretches from Alaska to here. This area has a large German community which was first established in 1852 and this influence is evident. Quaint Bavarian homes and alpine chalets with shingles, high-pitched roofs and ornate balconies. Everywhere you go you see flowers, especially roses in nearby Puerto Varas and Frutillar. Orderly, clean and pretty towns surround a large lake called Lago Llanquihue. The weather could have been better, a few hours it rained continiously.

Even our Taxi driver spoke fluent German and while Soldering Iron meant nothing to him - the German version "Loeteisen" did the job and with a smile and a nod he drove me to the Chile version of Home Depot where I bought the needed instrument and some solder to go with it. By the way its called CAUTIN. Just reattached the BNC - so in an hour when conditions open to the US I will call CQ as CE6/N1DL.

During the night we will depart for a 36 hour trip to Valparaiso CE2-land and I am debating on wether or not I should go from there to Santiago and visit the Radio Club of Chile.

No repeaters active in this area. Even on 146.52 MHz was no sound heard. That should change in Valparaiso and Santiago.

Our spirits are high (again!) and we are sending "all you'all" greetings from the Lake District in Chile.

By the way here is one for Monte: "Socialism can only arrive by bicycle!" (Jose Antonio Viera Gallo - Chilean politician)

73 es DX

Karl and Gitta
CE6/N1DL

04/01/04 Its getting warm - Valparaiso and Vina del Mar, Chile

Looks like we are finally escaping the antarctic embrace of the temperatures. Arrived in Valparaiso (Valley of the Paradise) which is Chile's third largest metropolitan area after Santiago and Concepcion. Before the Panama Canal opened in 1914 this city was one of the busiest ports in the eastern Pacific. Chile's Parliament still meets here and it is the country's main port. Mining and food processing are major industries.

The city is actually a series of neighborhoods that cling delicately to the "cerros" or hills that rise abruptly just a few hundred yards from the shore. Each hill is like an individual city laced with beguiling twisted streets. What I liked most were the 16 funicular railways (called ascensor here), scaling the steep hills to the various cliff side districts. Some are so steep that they are almost elevators. But what a view from up there!

We also took a trip to Vina del Mar, Chile's Garden of the Sea - one of the most luxurious resort towns in South America. On one of the pictures you can see the sandy beach (light brown) with Valparaiso as a backdrop far away. I also was intrigued by the architecture in Vina del Mar and the use of "ascensores" in lieu of elevators in Condo Buildings. Look at the picture carefully and you can see the cab 2/3 up on the right side of the terraced brownish building.

On the Radio side its interesting to note that the conditions have considerably changed in the last 1000 km. In Puerto Montt I heard few W's and VE's and here in Valparaiso I started to hear many (although mostly 5,6 and 7 land).

The station is holding up and I will continue to be active. I called the Radio Club of Chile in Santiago and thanked them for helping me with the license - they told me when I get home to Marco I should find my membership in the Club waiting for me too. The folks here are friendly but a bit more formal and reserved than the Argentinians it appears.

Greetings

Karl CE2/N1DL

4/02/04 I could easily live here - what a place!

Hello everyone. Hoping you are not getting too bored with my trip reports but there is more to come as we now continue our northward travels on the Pacific Coast of South America. Today we arrived early in Coquimbo in the El Norte Chico province of Chile. The scenery is so diverse in Chile. We moved from Glaciers to green wooded areas to flowery gardens and now to an arid landscape that is gorgeous. Reminds me very much of Arizona except for the ocean. Coquimba has a very agreeable climate and Gitta and I did not have to wear any jackets or sweaters today. Just 'shirtsleeve Marco style'.

The artificially hydrated farmland around here tapers off into the Atacama Desert zone. This desert stretches to the Peruvian border. Custard apples and other exotic fruits grow here in the Chico district. But there is also Iron Ore - freighters are waiting in the harbor to transport it to Korea and Taiwan.

Coquimbo is one of Chile's best natural harbors. And although the port is the focus of the town, fish processing and ore transshipment being the other, it retains a small town charme. The French have the Eiffel Tower in Paris, and Coquimbo has a Steel Church designed by Gustave Eiffel in the middle of the town. Seems Eiffel liked steel hi.

In 2000 three years after the Pope's visit to Coquimba the monument of the Third Millenium (a cross structure on one of the hills) was opened and we went up and had a look. Fantastic view from up there. 200 m above sea-level (for the non metric folks about 600 ft.) We also visited the Francis Drake monument to honor the famous Navigator.

But the the best was yet to come.

8 km north on the Panamerican Highway is "La Serena" the regional capital. Its the second oldest town in Chile and a coastal resort. Some of its churches were built as early as the 1500s. It is a town that combines historical Spanish architecture, Adobe construction like we know from New Mexico, baroque facades and modern buildings. Many of the rich Santiago folks have condos and homes here and its definately an upscale place with all the trappings that go with it. If it gets too busy in Marco - here is where I move.

On the way back to Coquimba I saw a small ICOM sign next to one from Motorola and stopped. Still looking for a back-up in case the thin coax gives out. To my delight the young man I asked turned out to be a ham "CE2TPE" and he created a RG-58 with two PL259s in no time for me. Isn't Ham Radio great?

Today I worked many QSOs in PSK on 15 meters (all Europe) and tonite I will try 15 and 20 again after dinner.

Will write to you next from Arica our last stop in Chile.

Stay healty and 73 de Karl CE2/N1DL

P.S. let me know when you had enough and I stop emailing - the satellite is not sad if I do.

04/03/04 Radio Day - Tarapaca Region in Chile ....
18 28 South, 070 19 West

The coastal Atacama Desert is the driest place in the world. Except for a few oases, the landscape is almost totally barren. It looks like the lunar surface on NASA pictures except for the Andes Mountains in the far distance. The clouds from the Atlantic move westward, rise and condense, but dropping all their moisture on the eastern slopes of the Andes. Storms from the Pacific are moved north or southward. Thus this area gets no moisture to speak of.

First Bolivia owned this region and used it to transport silver from its mines as early as the 1500s to the port of Arica in Tarapaca. Then Peru took ownership and mules and horses continued to bring the silver destined for the Spanish Crown. Only in the 20th century was a railway line layed to make the job simpler. These trains still operate and Arica serves as the main link between (now) landlocked Bolivia and the sea.

In the 1879 war of the Pacific Chile gained this territory amongst others from the neighboring Peru and Bolivia and only in 1929 was a Treaty signed that ratified this status.

The many cultures that blended together in this harsh climate resulted in a sturdy race of humans with high cheekbones and bronzed skin.

The economy relies mainly on fishmeal production and a strong military presence. However during "El Nino" years the production falls and the economy suffers.

Remember our friend Gustave Eiffel? Well beside the Tower in Paris and the Steel Church in Coquimbo he also built a steel church in France and brought it over to Ilo (then Peru) from where it was moved again to Arica. Try that with a brick building! When I get home I'll read up on this enterprising frenchman. Lest you think he was bent on churches - not so. He also produced two more buildings in the french workshop and shipped them across - one of them is the Customs Building here. If the weather wouldn't be that dry - hmmmm - maybe they would no langer stand.

Before I forget to tell you: Street vendors here sell Coca leaves and Coca tea bags. They are used by the locals to combat "puna and soroche" which are weakness, dizzines and nausea mainly created by altitude sickness. The Parque Nacional Lauca has altitudes varying from 11,000 feet to more than 20,000 feet. (for the metric crowd that is 3700 meters to more than 7000 meters) The guide insisted that us US folks not bring these leaves or teabags home. Well with Marco Island at 5 feet above sea level I won't get altitude sickness anyway.

You have probably seen over the years these Geoglyphs in National Geographic or other magazines. The are a series of hillside drawings representing Llamas and humans. They are also referred to as stone mosaics and found throughout the region. No one really understands the underlying meaning of these mysterious shapes, but one theory suggests that they pointed the way to the sea for travellers negotiating the inhospitable desert.

more to come ..... QRX pse

Karl CE1/N1DL

PS "great day" - was able to work some Spiderweb Net members this morning on 20m SSB, KK9TT on Marco in PSK on 20m both in the morning and with a stronger signal in the evening and an old collegue of mine from CA K7NUU on 15m in PSK and K1HRV in MA who helped me put up my first beam in 1969 when I came to the USA as DL2AA/W1 also in PSK on 20m - Dave is also a founding member of the Charles River Wireless Society which issues the Golden Screwdriver Award (which some of you certainly are on the way to qualify for!)

PPS "not so great day" - ruined the antenna base - the SO 239 connector broke inside. Rigged the one from my tripod base as a substitute. Now I have to 'reconfigure' everytime I drag the station from /mm to stationary and vs versa.

04/04/04 Dry, Hot and very different

This is part 2 of our visit to Tarapaca Region of Chile and the town of Arica and the Lluta and Azapa Valleys in the driest place on earth.

This part has the pictures referred to in report #18. I have purposely left the photos a bit larger so that you can recognise the Geoglyphs on the mountain sides - I checked and indeed the Llamas and the people and birds all look towards the ocean. So maybe this was indeed an ancient sign to help find the waters edge.

There is also an excellent Archeological Museum (Museo Arquelogico de San Miguesl de Azapa) which has exhibits starting about 10,000 years ago. Chinchorro Indian mummies from the Andes and the Atacama are preserved there. Much older than Egyptian mummies found they may well be the oldest found as yet. The eerie looking brown bodies were naturally preserved in the sand. The desert's natural ability to prevent degradation helped to preserve much of this areas history. (no picture taking of the mummies allowed) Gitta was amazed by the complicated weave patterns of the preserved Indian clothing. A pitty that none of the ancient cultures here used written language. There would be so much to tell.

Took a closer look at Monsieur Eiffel's Steel Church - looks like new - no rust in this area.

One thing we both realized ever since we entered Chile: There are lots and lots of stray dogs running around everywhere. Some locals in different towns acknoledged the problem but added that fixing the problem is too expensive. Chileans also keep their garbage in baskets on a 3 to 4 foot mast at curb side - I presume so that the dogs can't get at it. The plumbing system takes getting used to. Toilet paper (used) does not go in the bowl - but in an open basket next to it. A smelly not exactly hygienic affair.

Excuse the transgression -- could not help it.

We skipped the visit to the Parque Nacional Lauca. It has altitudes varying from 11,000 to 20,000 feet and we felt we would not expose our tired elderly bodies to this altitude. Especially after the medics warned that the likelyhood of getting "soroche" up there is high.

Although the beaches are wide and sandy (brown) the currents along the coast are strong and make swimming difficult and with the surf in many places outright dangerous.

In the desert we visited a few Oasis and were surprised about the variety of fruits grown there. One of the trabajeros made us a gift of two coconut sized mangos.

It was a worthwhile visit and we learned a lot.

Now I must tell you: Tengo calor - tengo sed ...

Hasta luego

Karl CE1/N1DL Arica, Chile

PS Bye bye Chile - hello Peru we will be coming soon!

04/05/04 Pisco, Ica Province, Peru
S 13 48 W 076 17

N1DL's DESERT STORM ...

During the night we arrived in Puerto General San Martin - a port in the middle of nowhere adjacent to the desert of Ica and the National Park of Paracas. (Reserva Nacional de Paracas). This is Park without green. Sand, sand and more sand. Located about 20 km south from Pisco, on the bay of the same name, Paracas National Preserve was once home to one of the most developed coastal civilizations in ancient Peru. The word 'paracas' means 'storm of the sands' and refers to the windstorms that arise usually each afternoon and can linger for days. The shores are home to sea birds and sea lions. Though the region is rather arid and devoid of plants, the nearby islands of Ballestas, Sangallan, Faralones and Blanca host penguins, pelicans, boobies, and flamingos among others.

Yesterday we were all day on sea and I worked as V31EK/mm and even heard K5LYN and HK3WOP ever so weak during the net. Worked lots of South Americans in PSK31 but conditions were poor on 15 and 20 meters.
This morning Lynn and Howard were strong and even KJ5CB after turning on his linear was clear on 14347 KHz. I could not hear anyone else really.
Hopefully the propagation is betting better as I move north.

A string of tranquil resorts and sleepy fishing villages lines this southern Peruvian coast. Pisco fits neatly into both categories. The older community of Pueblo Pisco retains the charming atmosphere of an antique colonial village. It is near here where national hero General Jose de San Martin landed and assisted Peru against the Spanish forces after defeating the same troops in the fight for Chilean independence at the Battle of Maipo River. Thats why this harbor is named after him and a statue was errected on the Plaza de Armas. There is an iron smelter just outside of Pisco ejecting pollution like English iron works in the 19th century. A fish processing facility gives work to many locals but the smell is something else. While we are dealing with the nose - visiting the islands in the National Preserve is an equally smelly affair - they are covered with Guano. It is pungent and clears your nose instantly (before you faint).

About 35 miles inland from Pisco is Tambo Colorado. This ancient city is filled with roofless houses and walls but some wall frescoes retain the original color and depict the ancient culture. There is another strange symbolic geo event: the 'avenida misteriosa de las picaduras de viruelas" (the mysterious avenue of smallpox). The long series of holes follows the Andes for 40 miles. Again, the original purpose of the eerie pits remains a secret. Some locals suggest they were used in ancient times by the Incas to collect water. But who knows?

After reviewing our schedule and the potentially ardeous trip to visit Cusco (the capital of the great Inca nation established over a millenium ago) and Machu Pichu where the ruins of the 'lost city' are preserved, we decided to spend tomorrow in modern civilization and visit Lima, Peru's capitol after arriving in the Port of Callao.
Therefore I may miss the net - depending on transportation arrangements I will make later today.

Greetings to all - Hasta luego ..

Karl OA5/N1DL
Pisco, Peru

04/06/04 Lima, the capital of Spanish South America 1535 ...

We arrived in the Port of Callao, the most important port of Peru where 75% of its imports and exports are passing through. We were surprised not only about its size - but also the cleanliness and well organized operation. Having seen many ports before this was truly a different experience. From Puerto de Callao, in the Province with the same name, it is only a 45 minute ride to the city of Lima (at least it was early in the morning when we took the taxi ride). Many societies thrived in the region before the Europeans arrived in the 16th century. The Inca Empire had only reached its great height a few centuries earlier and civil war was raging as Francisco Pizarro and his army arrived in 1532. He ambushed the Inca army and led his troops up to Cusco, where he sacked the capital and shipped the riches back to Spain. When he established Lima as the new capital of Spanish South America in 1535, he named it "City of the Three Kings" in honor of the biblical figures of the Epiphany.

Lima became the major administrative center for the Spanish Empire. Even after Peru gained independence from Spain, the city was a powerful seat of economic and political power.

This is the reason why today the city is a living museum of Spanish colonial architecture. The preserved antique buildings are among the finest of their kind. I have tried to select a few representative pictures I took - to give you an idea. Most were taken around the center of Lima, the 'Plaza de Armas'. This area has not changed since the city was founded. The city's civil and municipal buildings as well as one of its most famous churches (see Lima4.jpg) surround the square. La Catedral as it is called here has inside many elaborate mosaics depicting Pizarro's conquests. Actually the Conquistador's remains are displayed in a small chapel to the right of the entrance.

The Palacio de Gobierno where the President of Peru resides is situated on the north side of the plaza. We were too early to watch the changing of the Guard, but a very strong Police and Military presence was visible around the area.

Outside the center of the city things look like in other South American cities. If they have a building code - I haven't figured it out. Every second building looks unfinished with iron bars still sticking out on top ready for another floor to be built. Everything goes it seem. Any shape, size, color, material, roofing - you name it. Takes a bit getting used to. And antenna towers everywhere. Steve K5MIF would love it here!

There are many museums but we limited ourselves to admiring the world's largest collection of pre-Columbian pottery. Most items were Mochican origin and between 1200 and 1600 years old, but some were much older. In a separate building, a series of earthenware articles and statuettes depict some of the most intimate ancient Peruvian sexual rites. (Maybe we were born a bit to late!!)

Joe KK9TT had sent me an email asking where I get all this information from. Well Joe, some of us paid attention in school! Or maybe I am making it up as I go along?

Greetings from Lima - on to Pachacamac and the pre-Incan enclave.

Karl OA4/N1DL

04/07/04 PACHACAMAC - IN PURSUIT OF PERU'S HISTORY

Driving south along the Pacific coast from Callao and passing San Isidro and the very fashionable area of Miraflores (great shops, first class hotels, nice well kept homes, good restaurants) and further south Barranco and Chorrillos about 40 km distance along the Pan American Highway, is the pre-Incan enclave of Pachacamac that was once the largest city on the Peruvian coast. Though it was founded long before, the city reached its greatest period under Incan rule. Hernando Pizarro, brother of Francisco, took the city in 1533 and proceeded to appropriate gold images and murder the native inhabitants. The ancientcity has only been found in the late 1800s with excavation starting in 1892 and then again in 1940. Much is yet to be done - but money is tight.

The central structure was the Temple of the Sun (see picture 2 from a distance and 3 up close). Here human sacrifices were made and the Sun God prayed to. Most of the bricks are Adobe (mud bricks) mixed with broken shells to give it strenght. The walls are remarkably well preserved and show the building skills of the ancient nations thousand years and more ago. This temple was built in 1350. There are much older ones nearby.

Pictures 4 and 5 show the view from the top of the Sun Temple structure towards the west and the fertile stretch of land between Pachacamac and the Pacific.

Pictures 6 and 7 depict the well preserved structure where young virgins were kept and prepared to serve the Inca warriers. Monogamy was not in mode at the time. Our private guide, a young lady architectural student said: Inca male warriors had it very good at the time!

In the pre-Inka period temples it is interesting to note that they used the bricks vertical rather than horizontal. Considering the enormity of the built-up area - this must have been a gigantic undertaking at the time. We saw some unbroken pre-Mochican pottery with delicate patterns and earthen colors 2000+ years old. Some had fish symbols indicating that this was a coastal nation. There are also textiles from Paracas exhibited in a small museum on the grounds with intricate weaving of nearly 400 tread per inch. The material is mostly Llama wool and Alpaca (sp). In addition there are ornate objects made out of gold, silver and lapis lazuli and emerald. We did not go and see more mummies (once you have seen one - well what is the point). I was also successful to keep Gitta away from the Gold Museum and the adjacent Jewelry shops. One never knows. Now with the new ICOM 7800 on the market we need to keep priorities straight!

I am adding one picture of the pueblos juvenes, the shantytowns around Lima, this one is nearby Pachacamac. It has no running water or electricity but our guide said the government has basically given up and now tolerates these illegal settlements and is even providing water and electricity to some. In a bizarre testament to our rather strange global societal values, the new shanty villages often feature a preponderance of half- or quarterbuilt homes sporting antennas or satellite dishes.

By the way the pace of life (except for the traffic)in the Peruvian capital is relaxed. The people are friendly and the atmosphere is slightly dreamlike. This is also because of the "Garua" or fog, that blankets the city most of the time. Only 20 miles south we say real blue sky and had clear visibility.

This was another interesting day - I am glad we went and took a professional guide - it was well worth it.

Bye bye Peru --- moving towards the equator -- Ecuador we are coming soon!

Greetings

Karl OA4/N1DL

04/09/04 Sweating on the Guayas River - Guayaquil / Ecuador

Very early this morning we came from the Pacific into the Gulf of Guayaquil and then 12 miles into the Guaya River to the Port of Guayaquil.

This is a natural port but to get here you pass hundreds of mangrove islands very similar to Marco Island. Tough route for a ship this size to take but the pilot obviously knew his way. Guayaquil is Ecuadors largest city. Founded in 1547, the tropical city of two million residents lines the heavily wooded banks of the cocolate-colored Guayas River. In the 1700s the port became a favored target for notorious pirates. There is a rivalry between Guayaquil and its Guayacos and the capital of Quito. The Guayacos are fiercly proud of their city's reputation as the most liberal city in the nation. They have rebelled many times against the Quito government and some say that the only reason Guayaquil is not the nation's capital is that the Spaniards found Quito easier to control.

This is an industrial city. Oil and sugar refineries, cement mills, breweries, and several other large factories line the crowded riverbanks. However the there are also some small parks and pleasant gardens. The waterfron drive, Malecon Simon Bolivar, lines the riverbank and has splendid old and new buildings. Amongst them are the Palacio de Gobernacion and the Palacio Municipal.

It was in the mid 90 F (30+ C) today and humid. Gitta and I decided we make the trip into town as early as possible and by 8:40 am we were standing in front of the Cathedral. As the Church was not yet open we wandered into he park opposite (Parque Bolivar) to look at Simon Bolivars statue and admire Mo's ancestors. (for those of you who do not know who Mo is - he/she is Pauls (KJ5CB) house Iguana and the derelict who sh..'s on my boat occasionally).

La Rotunda also on the river houses the Guayaquil Yacht Club who extended a welcome for refreshment and exhibited the friendlyness and amiable extrovertedness (sp) of the Guayacos. After struggling with one of these coin public phones and getting nowhere, we decided to give up on calling Rey, HC2RG and visit him in his office. He had provided me with every possible address and number where he could be found in many contacts I had with this top Ecuadorian DXer. Sure enough once we got to the Hospital Luis Vernaza ( a huge campus ) and asked for him at the security desk we were treated with great respect and pointed in the direction of his office. Turns out he is the top administrative honcho and once past 3 administrative aides, Rey welcomed Gitta and me into his office. We had a good chat and nice time - but it was a working day and folks were already lining up. So we bid bye bye and went our way.

Guayaquil is a "small large city". It gives you the feeling of relative compactness. The business section of the city and the major public areas along the river and close by were clean and well kept. A bit further out everything looked very familiar - we had seen the general picture in other South American Cities.

The most important part of a car or truck or bus is a horn. And I don't mean the run of a mill horn we have in the US. No, the ecuadorian version of horns give any imaginable sound and are in constant use. It almost feels like a kind of CW QSO except it isn't morse code they use.

We were warned about pickpockets but around all the tourist spots you see special tourist police and we had no problem. By the way the incoming president in 2000 Gustavo Noboa terminated the use of the local currency the Sucre and replaced it with the US Dollar. This has helped keep inflation down and the economy grow. The major industries include fishing, petroleum refining and consumer goods, although the nation's largest export is bananas.

We are only 2 degrees south of the Equator - tomorrow in Esmeralda (HC4 land) we should be on it.

Until then 73 .... I am going to re-hydrate my body with cerveza ecuadoriana
(unless of course I can find Bavarian Beer!)

Karl HC2/N1DL

04/17/04 Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Sur, Mexico

Well, I was debating wether or not to send one more report. After all we are no longer in South America after having reached Baja California. But here it is and its going to be the last because we are now on our way to San Diego where we will catch a plane back to Marco Island.

The tip of 1,000 mile long Baja California is a rock formation known as El Arco ("the arch"). Its mysteriously beautiful crags have drawn people here for ceturies. Baja California was once joined with the rest of Mexico, but powerful earthquakes cause the split and formed the Baja California Peninsula. The new sea that filled the created gap is known as the Sea of Cortez (or in US circles as the Gulf of Baja California). It is the worlds youngest body of water and it contains more than 100 uninhabited islands. Although Earthquakes have subsided, they have not ceased and the area is still an active geological zone.

The waters around Cabo as it is known locally, are a home to a wide array of marine life, including gray and humpback whales. Once two separate villages, Los Cabos have merged into a single resort area. This has made swell the population to more than 50,000 people, yet a plesant athmosphere of primitive isolation prevails. Birds as well as people seek sanctuary from the cold norther winter here, and tuna, marlin, dorado, and thousands of other fish species provide both the winged and human inhabitants with a delicious smorgasbord. The town is not large, an hour is all you need to walk trough.

This is also the last stop on our 5+ week tour that started in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil and visited the Falkland Islands, Argentina, Cape Horn, Chile, Peru, Ecuador, Costa Rica and Mexico. It has been a great experience and impressed us with the variety of sights. From antarctic glaciers to dry deserts and on to tropical rain forest we saw it all. Without exception the people were friendly and especially when one made the effort to speak a little in their tongue, they opened up and helped gladly. On the Ham Radio side - it was an experience to meet some Hams I have talked to for years, never anticipating I would ever meet them in person. In general there is much less radio activity in South America vs North America or Europe. Much fewer operators own beams or amplifiers, and even repeaters are rarer than in our home areas. We also learned that by comparison with Europe very few people speak a foreign language - but then this is the case in the States too.

What would I do differently:
Bring a spare coax and connectors
Bring some basic tools and soldering iron
Learn more Spanish
Spend more time

All other things worked out really well, the satellite phone did its job (thanks John for lending it to me), the radio and its accessories worked flawlessly (ICOM 706MKIIG, USB Microham interface, Microkey, Superantenna PW-1, DXBase logging software, PSK DeLuxe software). The damage to the SO-239 in the antenna base was my fault by not inserting the plug straight. The HC license never arrived in time and for Mexico I did not even bother.

See you on the air from the home station in Marco Island next - greetings from the high seas - the station is already packed.
Position 27 North and 115 West.

Karl N1DL